Ed Lansink
Whilst turntables and record players come in several forms and designs, they all feature the same core components.
The basic parts of a record player or turntable are the plinth (base), the platter that revolves, the cartridge and its stylus, the tonearm, and the electronic parts that output an audio signal for amplification.
Whether you are new to vinyl or a seasoned collector, this guide will give you more than a basic understanding of the basic components.
To clarify, the terms record player and turntable have slightly different meanings.
A record player refers to a turntable with speakers and built-in amplification. They are all-in-one devices, whereas turntables need an external amp and speakers.
Record players are entry-level, beginner, and budget-friendly packages (often including a CD player). They have everything you need to get going straight away. Turntables are better for serious collectors who want better sound quality and the ability to play vinyl records paired with larger sound systems.
More info on these differences here → Turntable vs Record Player: Which to buy and why
This list is split into three parts. I’ve separated it between turntables and record players to help distinguish between the two.
There is a second split between ‘Main Parts’ and ‘Advanced Components’ for turntables. The main parts are found in basically every turntable, the latter can usually be found in more advanced models.
Let’s start with the core parts of a record player, which is a fairly simple device.
Use this diagram as a reference to help you to identify the names of the different parts explained below.
The term ‘turntable’ refers to the main part of a record player, but you get the bare components. This is the main device used to rotate and read the information from the surface of a vinyl record. These create a small electrical signal which is amplified and projected through the speaker.
Turntables typically output an audio signal at phono level, which is quieter and isn’t strong enough to feed into a regular amplifier. Phono-level signals need an extra layer of amplification to reach “line level” (- the required input volume for regular amplifiers) to work with speakers.
See further below for a breakdown of the parts within a standalone turntable.
Record players need an internal preamplifier to boost their electrical sound output from what the needle generates to get it up to speaker level. While oftentimes you’d need an external preamplifier to use a turntable, all-in-one players have their own built-in.
Most all-in-one players come with built-in speakers, although sometimes they are external. They typically use powered speakers, which require amplification to boost the audio signal to a suitable level.
Moving on to the more sophisticated turntables and the parts they’re made up of. You’ll find that most turntables feature all of these components, which form the foundation of how these devices work.
Here’s a diagram to use as a reference. (You can tap and zoom in on mobile!)
Mounted on a pivoting mechanism, the tonearm features a counterweight on one side, with the cartridge on the other. It guides the stylus along the inward spiral of the record groove, getting pulled into the center as the record plays. The tonearm is usually either S-shaped or straight and is commonly made of aluminum, plastic, or carbon fiber.
A small component that connects the cartridge to the end of the tonearm. The cartridge is screwed into it and hangs underneath. Some vinyl record players feature removable headshells and often have a small handle for moving the tonearm.
The turntable cartridge is responsible for converting the physical movements of the needle into electrical signals. Containing magnets and coils of copper wire (the combination of which create a magnetic field, producing the electronic signals), and the needle itself, the phono cartridge sends its currents down the tonearm and to the phono output.
There are a few different types of phono cartridges, the main two being Moving Coil (MC) and Moving Magnet (MM). In short, MC cartridges are more sensitive and can produce more detailed sound. Learn more on this topic here → Moving Magnet vs Moving Coil cartridge types. Upgrading your cartridge is a great way to get more detailed sound reproduction from your deck.
This is the “official” name for the needle. It runs through the record grooves as it spins and sends the physical interactions into the cartridge. They usually have a diamond tip (the hardest natural material in existence) and are connected to the cartridge via a tiny, flexible rod of metal.
As the needle moves, it creates electromagnetic energy using the coils and magnets in the cartridge. There are a few different types of styli (plural of “stylus”); some offer more contact with the record’s groove to retrieve more detail and improve sound quality. This is one of the central parts of a record player.
Used to safely lower and raise the tonearm with the perfect amount of speed and pressure. Without using one of these, you risk scratching your records or damaging the needle, which is very delicate.
A straightforward component, the tonearm rests here when the turntable isn’t playing. They sometimes feature a clip to lock the tonearm in place for additional protection of the needle.
This is the foundational platform of the turntable. It houses the electronic circuits, and usually the motor. Heavier bases are preferred for their resistance to vibration, increased durability, and stability. Most are made from wood, but also plastic or a combination of both materials. High-quality decks often use steel plates to add weight and reduce vibration and unwanted resonance (which can impact sound quality).
This serves as the lid to your turntable. It’s used to prevent dust from collecting on the record whilst the turntable is inactive, helping to keep your record collection clean.
These are used to separate the turntable from the surface it sits on. Isolation feet can help with better sound quality of your audio system by preventing vibration and resonance to affect the turntable itself. In better-quality turntables, these feet are adjustable to help you perfectly level your deck.
This is the round platform that your record sits on as it plays. The platter spins clockwise and is a central part of the turntable system. Typically made from light aluminum, they usually have a platter mat (see below) on top.
Aluminum platters are more common in high-end turntables and offer better balance and more protection from external vibrations and unwanted noise. Platters with a high mass are favored by audiophiles (since they also help reduce external vibration and resonance).
Also called a turntable mat or slipmat, this is a sheet of material that goes between the revolving platter and the record. The record sits on a platter mat to separate it from the platter. It has a couple of functions. Primarily it prevents the record from getting scratched by the platter’s harsh surface.
It also helps to isolate vibrations from the motor, creating a cleaner sound. When DJing it’s important to use a slippery material like wool, rather than rubber.
To learn more on this topic, read this guide → Types of Platter Mats.
This is the central metal rod on the platter that holds the record in the middle. The metal rod is threaded through the central hole of a record to hold it in place. In direct-drive turntables, the spindle is attached to the motor.
These are used for changing the rotations per minute (RPM) speed. Most offer 33⅓ and 45, some also offer 78 RPM. Not all turntables have buttons. On some belt drive models, you have to change a mechanism under the platter to change speeds. It’s rare to see 78 on a modern turntable because it’s a relatively obsolete format.
Used for controlling the power of the turntable’s electric circuit. It has a different function than a start/stop button (which controls the spin up/down of the platter. The power switch is often combined with the speed selector controls mentioned above.
AKA a phono preamp, preamplifiers are used to boost the electronic signal produced by the cartridge to “line level” (i.e. strong enough to be fed into an amplifier with speakers). Sometimes a phono preamp can “color” the sound by using analog components like vacuum tubes. Many record players (but also standalone turntables) have built-in phono preamps, while some will require you to buy an external one. Audiophiles often prefer to buy more expensive external preamps to further improve the sound quality of their setups.
Often you will find built-in preamps in amplifiers as well (with so-called phono input).
These are the connectors at the rear of the turntable used to plug the deck into the next electronic device, typically a preamp or amplifier. Most turntables have female “RCA” (two connectors with red/white outputs), while some have an actual wire with plugs attached.
Most turntables aren’t plugged directly into a wall socket but use a transformer instead since these are low-power devices.
The grounding cable connects the turntable’s circuit to the rest of the sound system. Without grounding, there can be significant noise interference called “ground loop,” which causes an annoying hum. (More on that here → How to Ground a Turntable)
You just need to connect a wire between the turntable’s terminal and the terminal on your amp or mixer. This also helps to discharge static electricity.
This is the device used to rotate the platter. Turntables either use a belt drive system or a direct-drive motor. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Belts separate the motor from the platter for quieter sound output, which audiophiles prefer.
A direct-drive system allows for faster response times. DJs prefer a direct drive turntable because they make consistent beat matching easier, for example. Check out this guide for more info → Belt vs Direct Drive Turntables.
These are found in a belt drive system and are used to connect the motor to the platter, letting it spin with minimal motor noise and at a very consistent and stable speed. The turntable belt usually isn’t visible from the outside; it’s tucked away underneath the platter.
They will wear and break over time and need replacing at some point (but they’re fairly cheap to buy).
These other components aren’t found on all turntables but are functional and improve safety and performance. These are more common on expensive, professional models and less common on basic ones.
Because the mechanism involved with the tonearm relies on physics and balance, you need controls to perfect the weighting. There are a couple of common calibration settings
Because the tonearm almost works like a see-saw, balance is important. The counterweight is used to adjust the amount of pressure the stylus applies to the record. It’s used to offset or increase the weight as needed, depending on the weight of the cartridge on the other end.
You use the counterweight to control the vertical tracking force (aka VTF), which needs to match the weight specified by the cartridge manufacturer.
Helps to balance the lateral forces of the tonearm. Getting the perfect turntable anti-skate setting ensures your records play perfectly balanced on both stereo channels. It also keeps the stylus more stable in the record groove.
This adjustment setting helps you calibrate the Vertical Tracking Angle, helping you ensure the tonearm is perfectly level with the surface of the record. You usually only need to adjust this if you change the cartridge.
Mostly found on DJ turntables, pitch control sliders are used to increase or decrease the speed of the turntable’s rotation as needed. These are typically used for beatmatching two records with different speeds.
They usually have continuous variance, meaning it’s a sliding scale rather than discrete steps like 33⅓ and 45. Often they provide around +/- 16% of the speed. These are more common in decks with a direct drive system.
Starts and stops the motor. These are more common in DJ turntables and are used for controlling the motor state. They usually stop the rotation much faster than simply turning the power off.
Sits along the edge of the platter (which has lines or dots) and helps to check whether the motor speed of a turntable is calibrated correctly.
This is a small light that shines onto the surface of the record player. These can be used by DJs in dark clubs but also help to illuminate the needle, grooves, and any dust on the surface of the record.
Rather than having small central holes, some smaller 7” records feature a much larger hole. 45 Adapters are made of plastic and used to fit this type of record to the standard spindle size.
Record weights or clamps are usually accessories bought separately, although rarely, you get one included with a new turntable.
The basic functions of these devices are to:
More on this topic here → Vinyl Record Clamps, Weights, and Stabilizers
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I'm a passionate vinyl collector, analog fan, and lifetime enthusiast of most things audio.
On VinyliQ I help fellow vinyl collectors enjoy their hobby to the max, sharing my knowledge about and passion for vinyl.