Replacing a turntable cartridge is a relatively straightforward procedure. Even if you’re new to vinyl and turntables, it doesn’t require advanced knowledge to replace a cartridge successfully.
TL:DR; The basic steps to replace a cartridge:
Read on for a more detailed explanation of how to replace a cartridge and how to choose the right replacement for your setup.
I’ll explain how you know when it’s time for a replacement, and I’ll recommend some good cartridges to look at.
There are two main reasons why you should replace the stylus or cartridge in your turntable.
But when should you replace it…?
There are several scenarios where it’s time to replace your cartridge. If you’ve had the same cartridge installed for several years with many hours of play, and it doesn’t quite sound as good as it did before, it might be time.
It’s worth noting that often the manufacturers will specify a ‘recommended max usage time’ in the product manual. This gives a rough rating of how many hours the cartridge should last at peak performance. That said, in reality, it’s hard to keep track of the exact length of time – so use the indicators below.
Styluses (the small needle-like component that runs through the groove) have limited lifespans. Through hours of use, they wear down. Worn-out styluses create a lower-quality audio signal with reduced high and low frequencies, poorer definition, and a muffled sound.
Damaged styluses can also damage your vinyl records and will wear their grooves out quicker, which obviously you want to avoid.
As stylus wear is a gradual process, it’s often hard to tell exactly when it becomes too worn, as your ear may become used to the muffled sound. However, if you look and listen closely, you should be able to tell. Sometimes it’s worth comparing the sound of your record to a digital file (from Spotify or YouTube, for example) to judge how worn your needle is.
Note – You don’t always need to replace the entire cartridge. Depending on its design (and the issues), you might be able to replace just the stylus rather than the whole cartridge, which will save you some cash. Just google around for a replacement stylus that’s compatible with your original cartridge. Sometimes you can order them directly from the cartridge manufacturer.
Sometimes other parts of a cartridge’s body break or wear out. This can result in crackling or generally poor performance. The most common issue here is loose connections inside the cartridge or damage to the terminals. If you are experiencing any of these issues, then it’s probably time for a new cartridge.
Sometimes you might want to upgrade your cart if you have enough money and want a better sound. Even if your current cart isn’t damaged.
Upgrading your cart is one of the easiest ways to achieve better sound quality from your record player. Because the stylus and cart are so early in the vinyl process, they have a huge effect on the overall sound fidelity of your turntable system.
Investing in a high-quality cart can make a huge difference to your setup. I often recommend this as one of the first parts to upgrade, provided you already have decent amplifiers and speakers.
This section outlines the steps taken to install a new cartridge in detail. Whilst the specifics might be a little different depending on the style of the tonearm, cartridge, and turntable model, the overall procedure is relatively uniform.
You only need a couple of tools to replace a cartridge.
Follow these replacement and installation instructions to swap your previous cart with a new one.
The above steps cover every part of the replacement process. It might vary slightly for certain record players.
If your cartridge allows, you might be able to simply swap the stylus rather than the whole unit. Replacing the stylus is an even more streamlined process compared to swapping the whole.
Note – Always leave the stylus guard on to protect the stylus; the last thing you want to do is break your new stylus when you’re trying to replace it.
After changing the cartridge, it’s important you recalibrate the related parts to optimize audio quality. I’ve given a brief explanation for each area, but it’s worth looking at the full guides to get more detailed instructions on recalibration:
There are hundreds, if not thousands, of cartridge models out there. So it can be hard to choose a replacement, particularly if it’s your first time.
This section will help you to choose the best replacement cartridge model for your deck.
Styluses come with a range of needle head shapes. Each of these has unique properties, it’s usually a tradeoff between durability and sensitivity.
Conical and Elliptical are the most common stylus tip shapes, which offer a decent level of durability. An elliptical is slightly more sensitive (resulting in more detail) due to its pointier shape. While conical tips are more durable, although offer less detail due to their blunter, thicker design.
There are a bunch of other shapes, including Fine Line, Shibata, Microline, and others. You can find out more about stylus shapes here → Cartridge Mount Types.
The best type for you depends on your preferences. Do you mind paying for faster deterioration in order to achieve a higher level of initial quality?
‘Generator’ refers to the mechanical system used by the cart to create the raw audio signal. There are two main types of cartridge generator systems – moving magnet and moving coil.
These use essentially reversed internal mechanics, which results in performance differences.
In short, MM-type cartridges are more common, cheaper, and run on standard equipment and preamps. MC cartridges offer increased quality and definition but are more expensive and require specific MC-compatible preamps to work.
Most turntables are compatible with either type, it’s just the phono preamp that needs to be suitable.
For more information on this subject, check out my full guide – Moving Magnets vs Moving Coil Cartridges.
Cartridges use a range of mounting systems to attach themselves to the tonearm. Many turntables and cartridges use a headshell-based system, where the cart is screwed into a headshell, which is attached to the tonearm.
Alternatively, some cartridges use an integrated style, which means they don’t need a headshell. Not all integrated carts are compatible with all turntables. It really depends on what kind of tonearm your deck has and whether you want to use a headshell or not.
Here are the common mounting systems:
This is an often overlooked specification, but it measures how effectively a stylus can read a spinning groove. The trackability measurement defines how much amplitude (volume) the stylus can handle before the signal distorts.
Trackability is measured in micrometers (μm) with higher values resulting in better performance and the ability to handle a larger dynamic range with less distortion.
Unfortunately, not all cartridges are compatible with any turntable. While there is generally a decent amount of compatibility, it depends on the specifications of the tonearm and turntable.
It’s important to replace cartridges once tone quality deteriorates. Not only will this increase your audio quality, but it also prevents the needle from wearing out or damaging your record groove. If there are audible signs of wear, then it’s probably time for a replacement stylus or cart. You can always look at it under a microscope to get a visual test.
There isn’t a specific stylus replacement interval, but on average, the recommendation is to swap it after every 1000 hours of playtime. Ultimately it depends on the durability of the stylus and whether you take proper care when playing records. As a reference time, if you play records for an hour a day, your cart will require replacement every three years or so.
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I'm a passionate vinyl collector, analog fan, and lifetime enthusiast of most things audio.
On VinyliQ I help fellow vinyl collectors enjoy their hobby to the max, sharing my knowledge about and passion for vinyl.