Ed Lansink
First pressing records (also called ‘OG’ – original) are the earliest batch of a vinyl album release. These rarities are often seen as collectors’ items in the vinyl community and can fetch a much higher price than later pressings.
This guide explains how to determine whether a record is a first pressing and explores some reasons why they are so highly sought after.
An album or EP may see multiple pressings throughout its time as a vinyl record. The term originates from the pressing process involved with creating vinyl records. (Find out more here → How vinyl records are made)
If the supply runs low and demand stays high, a label may issue multiple runs of the same record over time. A record company generally starts by selling the original pressing run. When they run out, they need to go back to the pressing plant for another batch. The original pressing run only happens once, anything after this is basically a new “edition” of the record.
A record company will also generally release different variations when selling in other countries.
In the earlier years, record labels would also often have separate pressing runs from mono and stereo editions.
In most cases, there are obvious identifiers setting original pressings apart from later copies – from unique label designs to catalog numbers.
Record companies use different techniques to catalog and distinguish the various runs of a vinyl record. If you want to check whether you have a first pressing, you’ll need to put on your detective hat and start digging for clues.
Online sites are the best place to start when you want to find the identifying features of each pressing run. Thankfully the vinyl community is very passionate (and organized) so there’s plenty of info out there. Keep reading for some recommended sites!
Before getting into the identification process, let’s explore the core concept of a matrix number, and identify a helpful database for finding relevant information.
If you look closely in the blank area between the label and the end of the grooves (aka “dead wax” or “runout section” on each side of a record), you can find a number or code cut into the surface of a record.
Holding it a certain way in the light helps to make it more visible.
This is the matrix number for your record. Often these markings will be different for each side of the record.
These numbers refer to the original master tape recordings that were used to produce the master disk (aka matrix disk).
Originally commercial vinyl records would be copied from a master disk, as it could handle the low demand volumes. As music on records became more popular, secondary copies (Mothers) had to be pressed from the master, which were then used to make commercial copies. The secondary mother cuts also had different matrix codes from the master.
The Matrix code tells you which master tape recordings were used to cut the grooves of the lacquer disc in the studio. It often starts with three letters and then a two or three-digit number, but it can be anything.
Other identifiers in de dead wax often include numbers and letters, and some even with quotes, engineer signatures, or other random sentences, and even references to the pressing plant and which master disc was used. You’ll find different letters at the 6, 1, and 9 o’clock positions, which indicate which stampers and matrix discs were used.
These markings are usually made by the mastering engineer and are etched into the master disc, printing in when pressed.
These are stamped into the record during the pressing process. The matrix number is unique for each run, so this is a great way to find out what version a record is and whether it’s a first pressing.
Vinyl records (as well as other music media) have catalog numbers as well, which are usually a combination of a set of letters combined with a set of numbers. Catalog numbers are unique only to the music release, while a single release can contain several pressings.
For that reason, although catalog numbers can be used to identify records in certain cases, they’re rarely useful to establish that you hold a first pressing in your hands, especially for more popular releases.
The easiest way to find information on vinyl record pressings is on Discogs, a massive database of music release information, including vinyl releases. It’s basically Wikipedia for vinyl.
With a quick search, you can usually find information on each specific pressing variation, with details on how to distinguish the original pressing from later cuts.
Discogs pages usually contain the Matrix Number for each pressing run and information on other details found in the dead wax. You’ll often find info about the catalog number, pressing plants, details on the record labels involved, cover art variations, and even who the mastering engineers are.
The depth of info available varies for each release. Generally, you’ll be able to identify how original pressings vary from later runs and other label variations.
The screenshot below shows some of the entries for Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. You can see all the different pressings and separate pages for different countries pressings and stereo and mono editions.
If you click on a page for a specific version of this release, under the “Notes” and “Barcodes and Identifiers” sections, there should be information that shows how to identify that particular run.
When you are looking to buy a record, use the following steps to check if it’s the first pressing:
Let’s go through an example together.
I have a copy of I have of The Beatles’ first album, “Please Please Me,” – which looks from the outside like it’s an early pressing.
Looking at the dead wax, I can see the matrix numbers.
YEX 94-1 for side A.
YEX 95-1 for side B.
Searching these on Discogs reveals a large number of results.
Let’s try to narrow it down using more matrix identification markings. In this case, I can see…
The combined search of ‘YEX94-1 YEX95-1 M6 298109 M6 298110’ reveals only 2 results. Getting close!
Next, we check the details and notes for these releases.
On these subpages, we can see the release year as 1973, which is an instant giveaway that these aren’t first pressings, which would have been made in 1963.
I also get to know that these are foreign pressings – French reissues.
We can also take clues from the images on Discogs. In fact, the winning clue is that one of the results has no “STEREO” on the front cover, so the other entry is probably my copy.
We can use this search to find more information on the first pressings.
From there, go to the sub-page for the original pressing.
From this page, we can see in the barcode identifier section the catalog numbers for the original pressing are as follows:
Side A: XEX.421
Side B: XEX.422
Before digging deeply into Discogs, there are obvious giveaways that can indicate that a record possibly isn’t an original pressing.
A common technique is to look for any details which are more modern than the era of recording.
For example, many new reruns of classic records contain a barcode, which wasn’t used on records in that era. These features could be a sign you’ve got a second or third pressing (or even later).
Another key sign is the printing quality of the outer jacket cover. If the cover graphics look wrong (either strange coloration or offset images), it could be a sign that the record is a later run or even a bootleg!
Bootleg or counterfeit records are made unofficially, not released by the record label. They were the 20th-century equivalent of a pirated movie. Whilst originally sold for less than the real copies, some bootleg records are now seen as collectibles and sell for much higher than standard copies.
On Discogs, you can sometimes also be able to find information on how to determine whether the record is a counterfeit or later pressing. Here are a few examples of notes from Discogs:
There are subjective and objective arguments to support the idea that original pressings have a more faithful audio quality to the original recordings. There are other reasons why people have an interest in the original pressing.
Whether or not this makes it “better” is a matter of opinion. Different types of listeners have their own perception of what makes music sound better than others. Some are more interested in realism, whereas others prefer an exaggerated, more modern sound.
A common argument from audiophile collectors is that first pressings are closer in quality to the original recordings. They are pressed with the original master discs, so they have a more accurate quality. Subsequent pressing runs may use clones of the master, so they have a slightly degraded quality. (Like taking a photo of a photo, it adds distortion and noise).
Later reissues are often remastered. Audiophiles see this as an issue for a couple of reasons.
Record collectors place a higher value on original pressings besides the differences in audio quality.
There is definitely a large amount of excitement and exclusivity around the original pressing, which drives up their price. You are owning a piece of history, a one-of-a-kind, original. No subsequent pressings will come close in terms of originality and accuracy.
Although, a large part of a record’s value is determined by its quality, which is measured via record grading.
In short, grading is a sliding scale from poor condition to mint condition. For more info, see my full guide → Record Grading 101: How to Grade Vinyl Records.
Quirks and other pressing mistakes can make records more collectible. In early pressings, some mistakes would slip through quality control and make it onto the release.
These mistakes can be anything from issues with the audio to mistakes with the artwork and even typos on the label.
The answer to this question depends on what kind of vinyl listener you are.
For casual listeners and collectors, I’d say it probably isn’t worth spending the extra money on first pressings. They often cost anywhere from 2x the price of later pressings – money you could spend improving your setup or buying more records.
For audiophiles and more serious record collectors, some first pressings are worth it. For people who value their rarity, history, and sometimes increased sonic quality, they can be a good investment. Generally, first pressings hold their value better over time (even increasing as they become rarer).
Much like gold, jewelry, and pokemon cards, records are a tradable asset. They can be viewed as original, limited pieces of art, like the Mona Lisa. This is why some first pressings auction at such astronomical prices. As mentioned earlier, these are the only instances of the first cut, and some people in the vinyl market find this rarity valuable.
To summarize, if you just want to listen to a record, then buy a cheaper, later pressing. If you want to collect something unique and historical (and you have the budget) go for a first pressing.
Generally, you’ll have to buy first pressings through some kind of private sale or through an auction website.
It’s unlikely you’ll find them in record stores, although they may have a couple if they specialize in rarities. Very rarely (but excitingly), a first pressing can turn up inside a bunch of records at a garage sale.
The easiest places to buy first runs are online, usually through eBay or Discogs.
Discogs has a wider selection of records to choose from, although there are often rare vinyl auctions on eBay.
Both platforms have systems in place to prevent scams, which reduces the risk. Although, of course, the refund procedures can be a bit long-winded.
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I'm a passionate vinyl collector, analog fan, and lifetime enthusiast of most things audio.
On VinyliQ I help fellow vinyl collectors enjoy their hobby to the max, sharing my knowledge about and passion for vinyl.